Which type should I choose?Start off by looking at the different
types of mounting options available. There are two main approaches:
fixed frame, where the screen is placed in a rigid frame and attached
permanently to the wall, or ‘roll-away’, where it can be rolled up when
not in use.Within the latter category there are also various sub-options
we’ll consider in a moment. For people lucky enough to have dedicated
home cinema rooms, the fixed frame approach will often be the simplest,
since the screen doesn’t need to be hidden when not in use. It’s widely
considered, too, that permanent screens stay more tautly stretched and
thus produce more accurate pictures. Roll-away screens are obviously
a great solution for people trying to accommodate a home cinema setup
in a room that also gets used for other activities, such as a living
room. The most basic of these screens sit on a roller attached to, or
hidden in, the ceiling and the user has to manually pull the screen down
when needed.
Also
very popular is the motorised roll-down variety, where motors drive the
screen down into position at the touch of a remote control button. Some
projectors carry 12V trigger outputs, in fact, so that they can
activate motorised screens automatically when the projector is switched
on. If even having a slim roll-out screen housed on your ceiling
feels too intrusive, a further, portable option is the pull-up
projection panel. these come fixed inside carry cases that you stand on
the floor, so that the screen pulls out of the top and is held upright
by a collapsible support frame. We’ve found that the more affordable
floor-mounted types may not always stand completely upright or even
flat. But the fact that you can put them in a cupboard when you’re not
using them is a practical benefit that will justify the performance
compromises for some. rigidity and perfect flatness, so crucial to a
good picture, are often one of the main reasons some projector screens cost vastly more than others, especially in the roll-away department.
Projection screen aspect ratios
Another key decision is which shape and size of screen you should go
for. In terms of shape, there are three aspect ratio options: 4:3, 16:9,
and 21:9. For home cinema enthusiasts, the old ‘square’ 4:3 screen
approach is almost certainly a nonstarter these days. Which leaves us
with 16:9 or 21:9.
If you intend to watch a lot of HD, you will
probably be best off with a 16:9 screen that matches the ratio of HDTV
material. If you’re a die-hard movie fan, though, you might consider a
21:9/2.35:1 CinemaScope screen. After all, most big films now are shot
in 2.35:1, and so the majority of Blu-rays are produced with that aspect
ratio.However, the situation isn’t totally cut and dried. Blu-rays
don’t currently hold ‘true’ 21:9 masters (instead adding black bars
within the picture data), and projectors don’t have true 21:9 pixel
ratios. So if you want a full 21:9 experience, you need a projector with
a CinemaScope lens attachment – something which can add considerable
cost to your projector setup.
Are you confused about which projection screen to choose? Want quick information about the front and rear projection? Here’s an ultimate guide that will help you know in-depth about what’s better for you and what will make your movie viewing experience worth it! Optical front projection and rear projection screens provide many of the same benefits. Both projection screen types offer enhanced contrast and brightness compared to conventional non-optical projection screens. When this is said, there are major differences. Generally speaking, optical rear projection screens generate the best image, but they also require more space. Optical front projection screens are extremely space-effective, but also less resistant to ambient light than rear projection screens. Here we outline the main differences between the front and rear projection so you can decide what best suits your specific requirements. Space Usage Front projection does not require sp...
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